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Post by Ambush Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:26 pm

My Compression Test Results

135
135
85
130
156
125

"Looks like cyl 3 has a leaking valve. Tested twice came up with 85.

Squirted some oil in the cylinder to help the rings, still only 85. Probably has a burned valve.

Still runs ok though.

So after having the crank pulley fail once, and now knowing that they are known to fail at bpu level, and having to remove it anyway to do the timing belt....... We replace every single pulley that you could possibly buy for the supra EXCEPT the one thats known to break."

-Mark at European Auto Tech

Ah, he is funny. Anyway, the car should be fine. Here are some pictures he took. Click the thumbnails to enlarge.

Ambush's Official Build Thread Th_f66f17ab

Ambush's Official Build Thread Th_b9254e24

Ambush's Official Build Thread Th_48c391bc

Ambush's Official Build Thread Th_9eaa9c8f

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Post by pvtnum11 Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:25 am

Bummers on compression results - robbing power - no compression means sucky power. Did you have any symptoms?

Looks like you may need a head rebuild? At the lest, a valve job. If it's the valvetrain's fault, could be a number of things. But since you're getting the head worked, MIGHT AS WELL spiff it up some.

Since it could be a burnt valve, I'd recommend getting yourself an EGT gauge so you can monitor Exhaust Gas Temp. The turbo diesel guys use those often, to avoid gving their valves a glow-test. Overly hot valves develop hot-spots and can lead to pre-detonation as the fuel comes into contact with the hot spot. Doing that while under appreciable boost and making any sort of power will lead to eventual breakage of parts.

If you're going to hold off on the repairs for a bit, run it gently.
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Post by Ambush Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:48 am

pvtnum11 wrote:Bummers on compression results - robbing power - no compression means sucky power. Did you have any symptoms?

Looks like you may need a head rebuild? At the lest, a valve job. If it's the valvetrain's fault, could be a number of things. But since you're getting the head worked, MIGHT AS WELL spiff it up some.

Since it could be a burnt valve, I'd recommend getting yourself an EGT gauge so you can monitor Exhaust Gas Temp. The turbo diesel guys use those often, to avoid gving their valves a glow-test. Overly hot valves develop hot-spots and can lead to pre-detonation as the fuel comes into contact with the hot spot. Doing that while under appreciable boost and making any sort of power will lead to eventual breakage of parts.

If you're going to hold off on the repairs for a bit, run it gently.

STOCK ENGINE HOLDS 700HP EASY. affraid

Should just be valve stem seals, hopefully. I won't be using race gas (E85) so no need worry. I'll probably max out at 500hp to 570hp max after the EMS, Fuel System Upgrade, and Turbo Upgrade. Will be a while.
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Post by pvtnum11 Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:24 pm

Just seals? Awesome, then. Simple fixes are always preferred.
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Post by Ambush Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:34 pm

pvtnum11 wrote:Just seals? Awesome, then. Simple fixes are always preferred.

The guy I bought it from said his valve stem seals were going. He was right, but I don't think he knew. The turbo seals are going so that is causing the smoke. The valve stem seals usually smoke on cold start. This is VERY PREMTIVE in finding the valve stem seals are going. All because I went and did a compression test. Valve Stem Seals always go on Supras, but after a lot of mileage like mine. Heck, I already have them. When I pick my car up I'll ask Mark what it will cost. I don't care how long it takes anymore and the price usually ends up better with that attitude. I used to call him and be like when will it be done, but I'm fine with waiting.
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Post by pvtnum11 Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:42 pm

Well, hope it all works out. I'd imagine that swapping the seals would be quite a chore, especially if the heads aren't coming off.
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Post by Ambush Thu Feb 10, 2011 5:14 pm

BG 44K

Ambush's Official Build Thread 44kinstall

This stuff could save me from rebuilding my engine. If the compression comes back after using a few cans of this, then I'm good. The engine's mileage says: I should not have this problem yet. However...

Labor alone, no parts, is $1,800. Now, this is for European Auto Tech. I'm not paying this much money if I'm supplying my own parts. Well, unless the other shop I know charges this much and it's just the going rate. I would rather have my mechanic do it, however, I'm not spending that much money. It's all speculation at this point anyway, but if in the end a rebuild is required then...

I'm going to make a call to this other shop once they open later and get a quote. I'll post the results.
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Post by pvtnum11 Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:20 pm

1800 bucks for a head job? How much of hte head will the wrework? For that price, they had better be rebuilding the whole thing...

Shoot, for that cash, I'd be considering an aftermarket head - that's where all the power is made, anyway. Better flow numbers from teh intake and exhaust ports and all that, and you flow more air, which translates into more power.

But worth a shot, if you can avoid the headache. Messing with heads can get real messy.

(has messed with taking the valve cover off of a car once to change a valve cover gasket)
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Post by Ambush Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:18 pm

I got 2 cans of BG 44K. Unfortunately, I didn't top my car off so I can't use it yet. The real unfortunate thing is I can't top it off because of the crappy weather. The even more unfortunate thing is, I can't take it out in the crappy weather because my driver's side window controls don't work! The window is down right now, but I have the cover over it. Ugh. Moisture...I don't even want to think.

I posted under my build thread on 808 supra club and someone said I can borrow their window control to see if it's the problem before I spend money on it. How cool is that? If he backs out a co-worker said he would do the same.

The door lock and window locks work so I've isolated it to the driver's side window switches. The fact that the passenger side window control works confirms this.
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Post by pvtnum11 Fri Feb 11, 2011 9:04 pm

Suuuuuuucks.

lemme guess - new switches cost a bundle?
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Post by Ambush Fri Feb 11, 2011 9:12 pm

I posted on Supra Forums regarding this. I always post under Elmhurst Toyota knowing that Craig Aigner will always give me the best prices. Basically, you post a new thread under his section and he gives you information. See quote below;

My Message

Driver's Side Window Switch
1994 Toyota Supra TT

Driver's Side Window Switch is not functioning. I believe I need this to get it working again. The passenger side switch works to roll down the passenger window. The other switches such as window lock and door lock work on the driver's side.

His Reply

84820-14260 master switch list 204.72 cost 155.00 in stock

Next step is to call and place an order and get it in two days. He is the man when it comes to OEM parts. I will call him once I confirm what part is hosed.
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Post by Ambush Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:08 am

I'm debating on whether or not to go for a HKS TO4Z or a PHR GT67 DBB setup.

-Both are single turbo setups
-Both are dual ball bearing
-Both have everything for installation except HKS is missing a midpipe

Power House Racing uses mostly the same parts in their kits, HKS stuff.

I'm going to do more research. It's not about how much HP you get, it's how soon (RPM) FULL BOOST kicks in. i think the GT67 DBB kicks in around 3,600 RPM while the TO4Z kicks in around 4,000 RPM. The TO4Z can get up to 750hp easy, it seems while the GT67 DBB makes maybe close to 700hp, but may fall short. I need to get my facts straight so I will do some more research. Of course most of these numbers are on Race Gas.

Excerpt from 808 Supra Club member:

McCully 76 - King Street

They are selling Sunoco leaded race gas.

110 - $13.00 gal
114 - $14.00 gal
116 - $15.00 gal


That's crazy. Good to test your car out, but not economical. What you would do is get it so when you dyno your car you get the numbers, but then go back to regular gas. You will have settings stored to what got you the highest numbers based on the type of gas and can switch to it if you ever want to go fill up on race gas. I probably wouldn't ever after it ran out once, lol. A waste I tell you!
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Post by Ambush Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:27 pm

Ok, recently my power window control for the driver's side stopped working as I mentioned before. I posted on 808 Supra Club and someone volunteered to lend a hand. They have an extra part and are going to help me install it. They may want it back, but I'll buy it from them if it works.
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Post by Ambush Thu Mar 17, 2011 12:51 am

Ah the last issue was fixed. Loose connector. Anyway, same door had the seal around it go. Water drips in when it rains. I got that rubber weather stripping piece. It's BIG. Shocked

Anyway, instead of getting the valves and all the other parts and having Mark do the labor for it I went ahead and just bought an engine head.

Specs:
"I just got this head back from the machine shop on Dec 11, 2010. Everything has been fixed-up and the head has been decked 0.007 inches to ensure a perfect product. Details are as follows:
- 12,000 miles on the head , bought brand new then set-up for +1mm valves
- All ferrea hardware has 12,000 miles of street use with the factory cams and rev limit
- Pump gas usage, no race fuels or e-85, or meth. Just 93/94 pump!
- 3 angle valve job
- Intake and exhaust side had the valve margins massaged to ensure a perfect fit to Toyota specs
- +1mm intake and exhaust competition plus valves
- Bronze valve guides
- Dual valve springs, with dual spring seat locators
- Titanium retainers
- Ferrea special hardened keepers
- Buckets and shims
- ERG plate and gasket
- NEW Ferrea VSS"

That was his post. Anyway, should be coming next week. Still need cams and a headgasket. Then it is installable. I'm taking my time with this.
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Post by Ambush Fri Mar 25, 2011 7:31 pm

Ok, so it's closing to the end. Here is what I have so far.

-Fully Built Engine Head
-Stage 2 Intake/Exhaust Cams
-Engine Management System
-Upgraded Fuel System
-Four Row Intercooler

The only thing left is the turbo kit. It normally includes a downpipe and a midpipe which will bolt up to the exhaust. We'll see.
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Post by Ambush Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:24 pm

Ok so the four row intercooler and bumper were mounted. He just has to finish up some small details.

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMG954071

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMG951659
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Post by Ambush Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:30 am

Finished! Need to be clean!

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Post by Ambush Fri May 06, 2011 12:35 am

Updates Pics

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMAG0009

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMAG0010

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMAG0011

Ambush's Official Build Thread IMAG0012
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Post by Romanovski Sat May 07, 2011 1:09 am

show the pics dude Rolling Eyes
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Post by Ambush Thu May 19, 2011 3:14 am

Ok, so there was the thing I was going to do. Now, I'm not going to do.

It was to send a pair of stock twin turbos to the mainland, have them rebuilt with GT28 compressor wheel and larger oil passages, then shipped back to me. End result is new turbos and more power. However, after looking into it more it's nothing more than a rebuild of the stock twins. There is another, more expensive option I could take but I chose not to.

I'll be getting a refund for the GT28 Hybrid Upgrade and paying off one of my credit cards. I think that is the wiser decision. To sum it up, I probably won't be getting the turbo kit I want until the end of the year, at least. Here is a pic of one of the members on 808 Supra Club forum. His car is stroke to 3.4L, Built Auto Trans, and now this DBB 6765B turbo. Dang it! I wanted to get this kit and then race him one day. He had a HKS T04Z, which is nice, but over priced. This turbo makes way more use of it's power, IMO. 6765 billet pics below.

Ambush's Official Build Thread DSC_2851

Ambush's Official Build Thread DSC_2852

Ambush's Official Build Thread DSC_2853

Ambush's Official Build Thread DSC_2854

Ambush's Official Build Thread DSC_2855
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Post by Ambush Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:10 am

Update

-Virutal Works Racing Intake Manifold

Everything is going into storage. I'm not spending anymore money on the car until my next income tax. For now, it's all about paying credit cards off and my car loan down.

Starting a savings that will cover closing costs of the house I want to eventually move into. No money down due to VA Loan. We'll see.
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Post by Ambush Wed May 23, 2012 7:56 pm

Received my parts.

Ambush's Official Build Thread Fd771212

Ambush's Official Build Thread 507ecba8

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Ambush's Official Build Thread B15637e9

Everything on hold for the new home. Still have some things to take care of. This stuff was purchased a while ago. Here is a pic of all of the parts in storage. Not too exciting since its all boxes, but I likey!

Ambush's Official Build Thread 9a5cab4e
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Post by pvtnum11 Thu May 24, 2012 12:25 am

Sigh....

Making me want to get off my duff and toss in my Scanmaster and gauge cluster.
Then I need to replace the t-top support bracket.
Then I need to patch/repair the rust on the passenger A-pillar.
Then I need to redo the brakes. Probably going to stick with stock parts, as Pontiac put on fairly decent brakes right from the factory.
Then I need to flush the cooling system, transmission, and rear differential.
Then I need to redo the geartrain for the headlight motors, so they work every time.

Then.... I can do performance tweaks.
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Post by Ambush Thu May 24, 2012 12:51 am

LOL. A case of the "might as wells".
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Post by Ambush Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:29 am

Update

I received some more parts a while back, but never posted.

-New 98' Headlights
-Modified 2JZ Timing Gear
-Turbo Timer
-Red Couplers for Pipes instead of the blue (following a theme)
-ATI Dampened Crank Pulley
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